The Traveler

Issue date: 3/27/09 Section: Lifestyles

Media Credit: Robert Garner Über's Burger Bistro, located 300 West Dickson Street, uses gourmet meat, such as alligator (center), buffalo and turkey, as hamburger patties.

Let's face it: there is no food more American than the burger.

Before you send me, or my editor, an angry tirade about the "roots" of the hamburger, or how pretentious of me it is to make such a drastic cultural statement, just agree with me. Problem solved.

So, where else would I go to eat a burger than Über's Burger Bistro?

In the title alone, we have linguistic representatives of three great nations, Germany, the U.S. and France.

Idea of America as the "melting pot," check.

But the culture doesn't stop there.

Inside, an eclectic mix of elements gives the restaurant an exciting, yet refined, feel. The red on the walls and upholstery instills a vibrant, passionate feeling that is coupled nicely with the "chill" music gently cascading from the speakers to fill the room. Colorful tapestries and lively pictures adorn the walls. Lamps collected from Los Angeles display the faces of African-American women.

One of the fabric designs is modeled after the original design of an early model Chevy truck. And if that's not American, then I don't know what is.

Plus, the building has a history.

Built in the 1930s, according to a friend of the proprietor, Bill and Hillary Clinton used to frequent the restaurant when it was under a different name.

But that's enough talk about fabric and other non-edible things.

I live to eat, and that's what I was there to do.

I've never seen a menu at a burger joint quite like this one. It starts off modestly enough at the top, with your simple cheeseburger and normal things. And then you start looking down.

The first one to catch our eyes was the Alligator Burger with Chowchow, which I eventually ordered. Then, we noticed the turkey, organic shitake and buffalo burgers. They even have an antelope burger, which the waiter compared to venison.

Eating every animal that walks, there's some more America for you there too, folks.

My friend ordered the santorini, a Greek style burger with peppers and tzatziki sauce.

On this trip to Über's, we learned to what extent one of my pet peeves bothers me. When burgers don't come with French fries, it's like having a peanut butter and jelly sandwich with just the peanut butter.

Lame, I know.

French fries have to be, and were, ordered on the side. That was my biggest beef with the burger place, just like Hugo's. If someone can explain this terrible phenomenon to me, please do.

My theory, based on Über's and Hugo's, is that they make you do that because they know you want them, but theirs are not really that good so they make you pay extra for them.

But I digress.

We split our burgers in half so that we could both enjoy the two distinct burgers.

The Alligator Burger was delicious. Truth be told, though, I almost felt like I was really eating a crab cake at some points throughout the meal. That's not a bad thing, just a note about the texture.

The Chowchow, a type of sweet and oh so mildly spicy relish, was a nice compliment to the gator. But the ruffles did not provide a nice contrast in texture with their crispness.

We both also enjoyed the Santorini Burger that featured a usual beef patty. The buns, which often go overlooked by careless cooks, were delicious as well.

The pickes were also amazing. As weird as it sounds, I'm a fiend for a good pickle, and I could have eaten theirs for days.

Aside from the serving of chips with a hamburger, which I still can't get over, the other downfall of Über's is the price.

I know that they always say that you're paying for the atmosphere as well. Although that might be true, Über's is still overpriced despite their captivating environment. I accepted the fact that my burger made of an ancient, ground reptile would be a little more expensive. But my total for the burger, fries and drink was about $23.

Unfortunately, that, too, is becoming a common thread of American restaurants.

But was it worth it?

I will go ahead and say yes, ignoring the shrieks of my wallet.

On a scale of 0-23, I would have to give Über's a 15.

The food and environment were great, but I still can't believe I paid $23 for a burger and fries (and chips).

It's absolutely true that you pay for the environment. Plus, you pay for the fact that these are "gourmet" burgers. Those two facts combined with the general overpricing of all restaurants these days make this place absolutely worth it.

The friend of the proprietor had worked us up for dessert, but the chef had already gone home for the night and the kitchen was closed (it was late, don't worry).

He did tell us, however, that the carrot cake was out of this world and that we should try something called a sacher torte (which he pronounced as "soccer").

All in all, I definitely recommend Über's Burger Bistro.

Although the price is high for burgers, the menu is so unique that you should go try it at least once.

I want to do some special reviews on your favorite bargain diners, so send me your recommendations where you get the most bang for your buck at rtgarner@uark.edu.

Happy eating, everyone.

Robert Garner is a staff columnist for The Arkansas Traveler. His column appears every Friday night.

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